Spain Coaching Exchange Record (5)

How to observe the route A good athlete can write down the entire line within 6 minutes of the observation line, then climb in the brain and turn a new line into a familiar line.

In the 6 minutes of the observation line, you have to do 4 things: observe, plan, design, feel, and act;

When you observe the route, you must first record down all the fulcrums, then look up the direction of the route from the bottom up, determine your hands, feet, think about the posture of the action, and finally determine where you can padlock and rest. If some parts of the line are not clear, you can skip this and look from the top down to where you just can't see. You must design two scenarios on the line where you can't be sure, and change the other way when the first method is not available.

There are two main aspects to the memory of the circuit. One is to remember one's brain and the other is to remember one's own body. Relatively speaking, the first is easier and the second is more difficult.

Here are some game-like training methods:

The first training method requires two or three people. First, choose a sideways wall, let the first climber do three movements, and then the second climber repeats the first three movements of the climber, and then Three more are added. The third climber repeats the six movements of the first two and then adds three more. This game can train your memory well.

Another training method is to blindly climb, choose a route, try many times, and if you feel like you can go without seeing it, try it out. The movement must be smooth and there should be no extra action. If you can't explain it, you still need to Continue to try this line, this training is very difficult, but very effective. Let you experience how to let the body remember lines.

How to warm up

Here's how to warm up before the match. The Spanish coach has turned the entire hot team into five parts;
1. Improve your heart rate: Let your heart rate reach the warm-up heart rate. The specific heart rate varies according to your personal situation. The main method is jogging, very simple climbing and so on.

2. Prepare activities: Actively perform various body movements for simple climbing to further increase body heat and heart rate.

3. Stretch the muscles and ligaments: Pull the ligaments, pay attention to continue to force, so as not to hurt.

4. Unleash maximum power: Do the hardest moves and let your maximum strength erupt, but take care not to take too long.

5. Relaxation: After completing the above four steps, be sure to set aside 30 minutes for yourself to rest.

In this exchange activity with the Spanish rock climbing instructor, we asked them some questions and the answers were very interesting.

Since the two Spanish rock climbers are relatively thin and do not look very strong, we asked their coaches "Can they do one-armed pull-ups?" The Spanish coach looked at us with surprise. "Of course. Each of them can do a single arm for each finger, and the two-finger single-arm pull-ups of the middle finger and ring finger can do 10 ". Unfortunately, there was no chance for them to perform.

In the process of eating with two Spanish athletes, we noticed that they seemed to be very interested in vegetables and fruits. We asked the Spanish coach “What do they (athletes) eat mainly daily?”. The coach replied: “They mainly eat large quantities of vegetables, fruits, and some staple foods in their daily lives and never eat all kinds of meat.”

Seeing that the level of Spanish athletes is so high, we thought that they must be professional climbers, but with curiosity, they still asked the Spanish coach. The answers were surprising. They were amateur climbers. Every morning in the morning they can work in the afternoon, and during the week, they train for 4-6 hours in the afternoon from Monday to Thursday. On Fridays, they go off to go wild in the weekend.

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